Laura Theiss, one of the most exciting knitwear designers of the fashion world right now showcased her Spring/Summer 2017 collection at fashion week in London largely inspired by the book ‘The Sun also Rises’ by Ernest Hemmingway and the religious portraits by the ‘Spanish Caravaggio’; Francisco de Zurbaran. Her innovative designs, feminine shape, and attention to detail were one of the main focuses payed attention to within the collection. Has knitwear ever been so intruiging? Dark knitwear for summer?
Choice of colour is strangely interesting for a Spring/Summer collection, black being the most prominent colour, differing from the usual pastels and brights of a collection for the season. Black is a bold choice and along with the red detailing in the first garment she achieves an all-round sultry look. This sultriness paired with the intricate knit that creates an accentuated feminine shape makes the collection something I want to see more of. In fact Laura Theiss, is in general a designer I want to see more of!
The collection as a whole is edgy and modern yet gives a soft Spanish essence. The bold outlines of the pattern bring in the modern idea, but mixed with the delicate weave that Theiss has used we begin to see the inspiration from Francisco de Zurbaran, her choice of a painted backdrop makes the model wearing the garments look as though they could be in one of Zubaran’s traditional paintings. The inspiration from Ernest Hemmingway’s novel is subtle but we can tell that Theiss has portrayed the image of the character Brett; a woman unwilling to give up sex for the man that she loves. We see the character portrayal through the feminine shape of the garments and also the almost risqué cut of some of the skirts that are slit at the front in the centre of the models thighs. It is perfect for a modern woman, the twist she adds by adding veils still doesn’t take our attention away from the gorgeous designs she has applied to the knitwear.
Theiss is definitely one to watch in the coming years at fashion week.